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There is no denying the phenomenal increase in participation
of women in competitive and casual sports. Some of this is
legislative (Title IX) and some clearly buoyed by the growing
acceptance and visibility of female athletes as role models.
Along with this participation comes an equally obvious increase
in demand for the equipment, shoes, apparel and accessories
needed to compete. Women's sporting goods is now projected
by the NPD Group and the Sporting Goods Manufacturers Association
to be a $17.4 billion business in 2004, an increase of nearly
11% in the past year alone.
Now comes the interesting part. It is widely regarded that
traditional sporting goods stores are male bastions, designed
for the needs of men, not women. And, indeed, most sporting
goods stores feature a significantly smaller assortment of
products specifically geared for women (acknowledging that
much of the equipment and some apparel can be unisex). This
has led to the development of female driven sporting good
and apparel concepts. Consider these four (and there are several
others):
- Lucy's
origins are fascinating; a failed Internet start-up that
has emerged as bricks and mortar-from clicks to bricks.
Where Lucy's original focus was very much on performance
wear "support for every sport", we have watched the brand
morph towards a more fashion forward proposition. Recent
visits reveal a stronger emphasis on private brands and
greater clarity around lifestyle segmentation-yoga, hiking,
etc. than in prior years. Lucy now has 28 stores and is
expanding into new markets like Dallas and Chicago. Perhaps
more significantly, Lucy also recently received an equity
transfusion from Chico's. With Chico's potential backing
and real estate leverage, Lucy's could be poised to expand
rapidly.
- This is the very
high profile start-up from Finish Line, which has received
quite a bit of press in recent months. Paiva is designed
to have more of a lifestyle feel, with emphasis on both
performance and fashion oriented lines. We spotted plenty
of traditional brands like Nike, Speedo and Puma as well
as edgier lines like Stella McCartney from Adidas and LaCoste.
Of course, there is more emphasis on foot wear in this store.
We visited two Paiva locations, including the original in
Austin. We felt it fell short of its promise of being an
aspirational lifestyle store. While it was softer, the harsh
lighting still gives it away as the "women's section" of
an athletic store. We felt the assortment was a bit unfocused
and overall we didn't feel the same passion that is evident
at Lucy's, either in assortments or enthusiasm of its personnel.
We view this entrant as a work in progress-we'll check back
in a few months.
- Nike has also
been expanding its Women stores, with 12 locations in very
high profile malls across the country. Nike also has a catalog
and website devoted to the Women concept, which features a
lifestyle driven approach to women’s performance athletics.
Nike does a spectacular job of visual merchandising and provides
strong motivational messaging. Interestingly, Women has received
the bulk of its retail focus of late, with NikeTown relatively
stagnant in number. We also note the note so subtle shift
from Goddess to Women, and wonder about the marketing insight
that informed that shift.
- This is a Canadian
firm based in Vancouver with 36 stores. They have been moving
down the West Coast of the United States and just moved east
with their first location in Chicago. The store, to be fair,
is a little unisex, with the predominant focus on women. The
Chicago location is segmented into two-sides—a performance
side with a heavy focus on technical fabrics and activewear,
with a focus on natural and organic fibers. The store has
thoroughly thought through organization, geared by highest
degree of performance to lowest with similar organization
by size and price point.
As in any emerging market, there is still a great deal of sorting out to do before the true winners emerge. Is this a performance market, fashion market or both? How many specialty stores can the market support?
Our sense is that the stores are still not aspirational or differentiated enough to own this niche just yet. What is clear is that this category has enough contenders to suggest that there is substance here-more style needs to be thrown into the mix.
Click here to learn more about McMillan/Doolittle
Neil Z. Stern
Partner
McMillan/Doolittle
During his career at McMillan|Doolittle, Neil has developed strategies and new concepts for a diverse variety of clients across the retail industry. Along with his consulting work, Neil is also recognized as a key thought leader in the retail arena. He is editor of McMillan|Doolittle's Retail Watch newsletter, which is widely regarded as the premier publication on new concepts and trends. Neil is frequently quoted in major business publications and has been often featured in the national media.
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